Day 10 - Tears, the last joke and Aperol Spritz

Highlights

I actually used my long sleeve!

The sea organs haunting melody

The last joke

Learnings

Last morning on the boat was dreaded for a couple reasons - obviously saying goodbye - but also because I had to pack again. Ugh. Repacking is definitely the ONLY downfall of this trip. Even though I’m good at it... it’s not fun lol

I woke up and got to it. Thank goodness it wasn’t the nicest day out - made the cabin comfortable enough to be in for a bit. Once I got up to the deck we were already full speed. Only a couple hours until Zadar, and the winds were with us. At first, a welcome reprieve from the heat I sat with my tank and shorts on, but once the wind started pushing the waves towards us and that nice little mist transformed to full on frontal splashes... I was thinking I might actually need to throw on my long sleeve I brought. The most clothing I’ve worn all trip really. Not for long though, once we docked at the marina the sun was already out and the heat was back.

Our departing moment with the Camarat. What an amazing beautiful crazy unique diverse sweaty magical adventure we had together. Not without one last coffee with Jose. We went into the marina cafe - GORGEOUS - again why am I surprised marinas host some of the most beautiful restaurants I’m not sure - sailing isn’t for the light of pocket. We debriefed obviously noting that Jose could never have another crew as fun as us and when we were chatting we asked how other groups did with ropes and the boat in general. At this he noted that people are not usually that great, he’s even had people drop the hook more than once a trip... whaaaat!? Jose! I honesty felt the whole time that I was not that great, that he was trying to be patient but most times just did it himself or would redo things... but apparently this is not the case! He said we did very well comparatively. Well, the last laugh is for you Jose. I had no idea I could be a sailer - but now - I may just need to consider it. (Jeremy - I’ll still hire you as skipper).

Jose departed and next was Antonia, tears flowing she gave her goodbyes as she made her journey south to Split. Caitlyn and Kathleen were staying one night in Zadar so we arranged to meet later on for dinner and exchange goodbyes then - too many at once is too many.

We shared a cab to old town where the girls had a hotel arranged and I walked from there to my hostel which was only about 15 mins. Did I mention there was still a breeze?! Yes, I have found my favorite place in Croatia to date I think. The breeze honestly makes such a difference! I feel comfortable for the most part. Who would have thought?!

I arrived a tad early so I relaxed for a bit in the Lounge and finally checking in to my room which was fun! Great little hostel, nice private curtains for each bed with a light and plug in. I quickly locked up my things and laid down - the full days have definitely caught up with me. I resisted napping opting instead to take advantage of a hot shower and some laundry facilities - everything I brought needed a wash after being salty and housed in the muggy cabin for over a week.

After all that was done, I made my way to the old town. Across the ‘Bridge of Most’ a large pedestrian walkway and journeyed through the streets making my way to the main attraction here for me - the sea organ. I’ve been interested in visiting this for many years actually. On the boat I was reading this great blog about Croatia called ‘Chasing the Donkey’ (I’m not sure either why it is called this lol) and it had a great overview of some of the historic sites and things to know about Zadar.

I’m happy I read this as I walked through and stumbled into different amazing areas I kind of had an idea of what they were and the significance. I twisted through the amazing cobblestone city and made it to the ridge of the inlet which the sea organ lived. Choosing a nice little spot nearby for a drink and waited for the Americans to join me. I chose to try the Aperol Spritz - apparently super trendy drink of choice right now and it was good. Little bit of juice with Prosecco so very light, refreshing and good to have in the hot sun.

I thought the organ may require the tide to be moving so I wasn’t prepared to hear anything but was I ever wrong. The haunting echo of the organ played all evening to the delight of the MILLION people on the walkway (not exaggerating). With the sun going down, it was quite an experience. Everything I was hoping for - maybe a little less crowded but I was prepared for that being here in August. I won’t complain.

We made our way down the coast walkway passing dozens of performers - apparently tomorrow is a holiday here in Croatia - the Assumption of Mary. So needless to say, many people many performers and many parties happening along with celebrations.

We decided to try a restaurant recommended on the blog I was reading as it noted they had the best seafood in Zadar. We luckily found a beautiful way to get there as we continued along the sea the walls grew tall and the path narrowed and we found ourselves walking along this gorgeous back lit pathway only maybe 10 feet wide? Boats parked all along, and the restaurant was right in this little area.

Wow.

Of course - it was busy - even though it was close to 9 they asked us to return at 10. Not a problem as we weren’t overly hungry, so the girls had noted a bar they found earlier which was only just around the corner and we could head there for one more drink before dinner.

Another great Segway! These little one off adventures are always gems it seems. The park they had seen with the bar was absolutely stunning. Almost like a backyard party in the middle of old ruins. I’ll let the photos explain more. We shared some insightful conversation about the trip throughout which was really reassuring for me.

When we returned to the restaurant and got settled it felt nice to relax and also this restaurant was absolutely gorgeous. A great find. We started with sharing a risotto - divine - and then I ordered another beef dish (I know - best seafood restaurant but hey - I have had some amazing seafood and this place looked like anything would be incredible) and of course - it was. The waiter then gave us a sampling of three little desserts care of the kitchen! Maybe since we waited so long but regardless - we had to try them all even though we were all completely stuffed. The first was a small mousse dome of chocolate and I think a jam center - the second was a berry cheesecake - and the third was a wonderful favorite of mine - strachiatella!

So, I mentioned 10 pm for dinner - so you can imagine the time now! Exhausted again - we now had our moment for goodbye and I felt a genuine sorrow. The three girls I spent 10 days with on a boat were all truly characters in their own regard and made the journey memorable in many ways. An experience I will not soon forget, and a difficult farewell.

I start again, solo, into Zadar.