Aug 22 - The ‘wrong’ journey to Korčula

Highlights
Wishing Lisa a Happy Birthday thinking I had missed her birthday - realizing I was up past midnight... Croatian time.
The lovely Zelinka - my Airbnb host
Korčula - the Adriatic’s best kept secret
Moreška sword dancing

Learnings 

Things along the coast have changed from when my mother and grandparents travelled here 

Always take the locals advice 

Continue being nice - they actually do like it here

The girls in my hostel also had to be up early but for a flight so we figured it would work out well to motivate each other although I planned to leave a little later than them - I ended up leaving before them lol women. 

Getting to the ferry early is always a good idea (as I’ve learned) and today was no different. Me and Boris still together... arrived about an hour early and got into the already long line up. What I didn’t realize is that there is a small cafe in the boat - fresh baking and COFFEE. I’m saved. I get a traditional apple pastry (still warm!) and a coffee and take a seat for my little journey to Korćula. 

Did I mention why I was going here? Well, let me clear that up. When my mother was young she did a trip to Croatia with my grandparents where they toured through the entire country along with a couple Italian spots actually. She’s told me so many stories about her journey and one of the highlights was a trip to an island where she was able to experience a traditional Croatian dance. She also speaks so fondly of it noting how she wished she would have bought one of the beautiful dresses the girls wore. So, I tracked down the information and found that this dance is performed on the island of Korčula - which I believe was also a recommendation of my moms cousin Michael. Win win. 

The ferry was relatively painless, dare I sat enjoyable. When I arrived the weather was also mild - maybe only 30? A nice change. So, I messaged my Airbnb host since they like to know when you arrive and just told her I was in town and putting my things in a luggage check for now but I could swing by anytime. She replied back quickly noting that I could check in right now! Well! That would be just perfect! I 

made my way to the apartment with Boris. He and I had a routine now, dare I say I was getting good at hauling him around. 

The host was a fabulous woman in her late 60’s. Very lovely and so helpful! The little room was a small paradise including a little balcony with a view of the water. I like checking in early but with all the travel - having access to my room always tempts me to simply lay down and sleep. I resisted - better to sleep on the beach right. 

After unloading some things I left to go and explore Korčula and also look for a replacement for Boris. I had two strategies here. Since the mail method failed - I would just have to deal with these things and most likely would be cheaper to simply have it as checked luggage. So, that requires luggage. I made out to search for a suitcase to transfer. If I couldn’t find anything in Korčula I had a lead on a place in Dubrovnik I could check which I would be returning to tomorrow to catch my Ferry to Bari anyway. 

I walked around exploring the streets here, ducked into a few stores - some for interest some for AC reprieve - and then made my way through the old town area. Apparently Marco Polo is the tourist attraction of choice here - tons of little stores with Marco Polo trinkets and paraphernalia even a museum. I also swung by a tourist store to purchase the Moreška tickets. I imagined the areas where they might have them as there is literally no information on the ticket just simply a number and a picture. Guess they must be pretty confident it’s easy to find right? I also found a pamphlet with some info. Alas, no suitcases... Boris lives to see another day.

After I had enough of all the sites I went back to the pier in front of my Airbnb which was recommended as the best swim spot. On the way, I stopped and picked up a snack and some beer - my favorite thing to do on my journey really. Sitting by the water, beer in hand, swim a bit, bake in the sun a bit. Beautiful. 

The afternoon slipped away and I went back to the room to clean up. There was a restaurant Tereza recommended as well for good local food. Not knowing where the dancing would be I figured I would get food early ish and then find the location - relax with a coffee until the show started. 

I did just that. 

Once I found the show I was a little disappointed to find it wasn’t out on the street where I thought it might be, as per my mother’s tales. I had even found this amphitheater somewhat in front of old town and was sure that is where it would be - aka no assigned seating. Instead it was inside the castle walls in what I would describe as a courtyard I guess? Just an open space with metal chairs set out on either side and up above on a landing opposite where I was sitting was an orchestra. Soon after sitting the band played and the music coming from above was quite magical, really filled the space. The host introduced two parts of the show - the first being a singing group of a few traditional Croatian songs and the second would be the sword dancing. She then had to introduce this same itinerary in 4 other languages ... ... not to deter my excitement but that was annoying. 

She left and the singers entered with their instruments and everything - wow. Amazing sound and talent but they all stood in a circle with their backs to the audience? Kind of strange, and sadly gave this lack of interaction for the audience. I really wish they had designed that better - I can understand their may be a reason for this but it wasn’t explained prior to. About four songs are performed and they are dismissed. The host rejoins is to introduce the next section - 5 different times. I think it was Croatian - English - Italian - French - and I guess German? 

In comes the next act. Starting with the introduction of some kind of story, there’s a maiden and a soldier arguing - did I mention they spoke only Croatian? I was so lost... again feel like I really missed connecting with them because of this barrier. I wish they had some kind of pamphlet I could reference during the show... anyways in speaking with my mom she and I concluded it was most likely associated with the war between Croatia vs Serbia since the actors were wearing red and blue . The dancing was repetitive, but so skillful. Eventually part of the very choreographed footwork involved sword contact and at each strike they sparked the metal. Crazy! These guys had some endurance to do not only be performing - in this heat - and the costumes - AND bashing the swords hard enough to spark each time!? Every second or third step involved sword contact too. Impressive. 

I messaged my mom about the performance asking if she saw the same thing (she never mentioned handsome men clashing swords...) and she said no, they didn’t see anything like that! Ha! Well then, my journey was perhaps for the wrong show! Yet I was still happy to experience this. Later spending with Tereza she noted that there used to be woman dancers in traditional attire but it’s too hard to have them all in one place during the summer! They all work in service type jobs for the tourism season apparently. I said that I was more than happy to watch all the sweaty young men all night instead. 

After the show, I did another little walk of the inlet of old town and made my way back. Called it a night. A beautiful moonlit night to accompany me home. 

The old town is built like a fortress with walls surrounding  it which were really magnificent. Inside this one was a private table for a dinner party... 

The Moreska Dancers! 

My after dinner coffee location, kind of pretty I guess? 

Beach day! The fruit was always so fresh and the little pastry is stuffed with spinach and cheese most likely a ricotta I think. The beer was a low alcohol but had a lavender flavour to it? Very refreshing! 

Great shot of the dancing - the swords were only about a foot long maybe a little liger and that’s what they had to clash together and spake while dancing! They sometimes would clash 4 or 5 times in a row if you think of counting during dancing... does that make more sense? It was very fast and they had to know the movies perfectly to not be hurt. 

My morning coffee in the boat to Korcula! 

The view from my place looking  down the pier towards old town - every thing  was so close! 

The view from old town looking back at the pier!